And was the holy Lamb of God,
On Englands pleasant pastures seen!
- And did those feet, William Blake

torsdag 17. februar 2011

Snowdrops


                                   Snowdrops
And candles soothed the bedside
- Mid-term Break, Seamus Heaney


Contrary to what I had expected February in York is quite mild. On days when the sun is shining it's great to take strolls around the city to view it at its prettiest, and also to see the various flowers emerging after the winter. This blogpost is dedicated to the snowdrop, also poetically named galanthus which translates into milk-flower from Greek. To me there has always been something special about the snowdrop and it is unquestionably one of the most poetic flowers to be found, struggling its way through the cold soil to be kissed by the sun and as such make an excellent emblem of fortitude.

The following pictures are taken in the garden by the Centre for Archaeology and the church of Saint Denis at Walmgate. The latter is particularly fitting due to the epigraph which is taken from Seamus Heaney's poem recollecting the death of Christopher, his four-year-old brother, whose bedside is soothed by candles and snowdrops. Considering graves to be a bed of sorts I find it proper to connect these two elements.


 The Centre for Archaeology, York University






 These are stone caskets from the Medieval period. This area was once the property of Saint Mary's Abbey.





The Church of Saint Denis, Walmgate









onsdag 16. februar 2011

Sundown

Now gan the golden Phoebus for to steepe
His fierie face in billowes of the west,
And his faint steedes watred in Ocean deepe,
While from their journall labours they did rest
- The Faerie Queene, Edmund Spenser 

Red sun go down way over dirty town
- Lions, Dire Straits


The following pictures were taken some days ago. I was heading home from the city when suddenly - passing by Lendal Bridge - I discovered how immensely beautiful the sunset was, seemingly taking place just beyond the trees by the river. Urged by this opportunity I walked across the bridge and followed the city walls for a short while, trying to get a closer and clearer view of this wonder which is made no less wondrous by its quotidien nature. Some of the pictures are not very focussed, yet they nonetheless capture the colours of the sundown. 
















 

Eboracum

 
 
Even their emperors, though they ruled nearly the whole world, gladly sought any opportunity to make the voyage hither and here spend their time. Severus and Constantius, for instance, princes of great distinction, both died in the island and were solemnly buried here.
- The History of the English Kings, William of Malmesbury
 
All right, but apart from the sanitation, medicine, education, wine, public order, irrigation, roads, the fresh water system and public health, what have the Romans ever done for us?
- Reg, People's Front of Judea




In the first century AD a Roman fort was established at the junction of the rivers Foss and Ouse by the ninth legion, sent north by the governor to quell the Brigantes confederation. Around the fort there emerged a town which was called Eboracum, either meaning "place of the yew trees" or "estate of Eboros". Due to its strategic location - easily defended and accessible by boat all the way from the North Sea - Eboracum became a very important settlement of Britannia Inferior (lower Britain). It served as a base for the campaign launched against the Caledonians by Septimius Severus during his stay in the period 209-11, and by the 4th century it was the capital of Lower Britain. Upon his father's death in 306 Constantine the Great was proclaimed emperor here.

Thre are still remains of the Roman legacy scattered throughout York, and this period of the city's past is commemorated in a number of ways.

One of the most prominent features of the Roman era is the city walls, although not much of the original walls remains after centuries of repair and improvements. The most striking vestige is the multiangular tower, situated in what is today the gardens of Yorkshire Museum.

The upper part is from the Middle Ages, which can be seen clearly due to the cross-shaped slits at the top storey where the archers were stationed.


The headquarters of the Roman army were situated at the place of York Minster, and remains have been excavated beneath the crypt floor. Among the finds was a column which is now erected outside the cathedral.



Closer to the Minster we also find a statue of emperor Constantine the Great, commemorating his proclamation as Emperor in 306.



Constantius, who was reputed a most cultivated prince, left as his heir a young man of great promise, Constantine, his son by Helena, a stable-girl.
- The History of the English Kings, William of Malmesbury






The people of York appear quite anxious to celebrate famous people connected to the city in one way or another. Further evidence of this - apart from the statue of Constantine - can be found in the fact that my residence is called Constantine House.



Old, worn, but neither ancient nor Roman.

Another remnant of Eboracum is the hypocausts of a Roman caldarium, or sauna, excavated in the city centre. It is now the main - and some may argue sole - attraction of the very small Roman Bath Museum, situated under the Roman Bath Pub.




 Saepe stilum vertas (Often turn your stylus)
- Ars Poetica, Quintus Horatius Flaccus


deep-buried hypocausts dense for the harrowing
- De Jure Belli Ac Pacis, Geoffrey Hill




We haven't changed since ancient times.
- Iron Hand, Dire Straits

(c) Amanda Hauer and Mort Walker respectively

This month Yorkshire Museum has organised an exhibition to commemorate Septimius Severus, who died in York January 4th and who was cremated in Acomb, the most elevated point in the Eboracum area. This exhibition includes a bust of Severus on loan from British Museum, a bust of his son Caracalla and is complemented by lectures and films. February 15 two of these lectures were held at the museum, one on Caracalla and one of Severus' British expedition. I attended both of them, as I considered the subjects quite fascinating. 
 
Lucius Septimius Bassianus, later Marcus Aurelius Antoninus, commonly known as Caracalla

The first lecture was a half-an-hour talk on Caracalla, describing his career, his personality and his achievements, giving a nice summary of his lifetime. The second lecture was given by Professor Anthony Birley and focussed on the archaeological sources to the reigns of Severus and Caracalla, highlighting the erasing of Severus' second son Geta's name from tablets and altars throughout the Empire following his assasination in 211. Birley also paid attention to the astrological preoccupations of the two emperors, noting for instance that Septimius Severus chose Julia Domna, daughter of a Syrian sun priest, as his wife because her horoscope had predicted a marriage to an emperor. Both Severus and Caracalla forged their years of birth. Severus because he preferred a better horoscope, Caracalla - allegedly - because this change brought him closer to a date of birth that was significant to his interest in the moon cult.


Lucius Septimius Severus

Additionally, Birley talked about their military and civic achievements and the various literary sources we have to this period and included some mentioning of the historiographical approaches. However, although the lecture was quite extensive in its scope, I missed an into-depth discussion of the actual consequences of Severus' campaign on Eboracum as a settlement and some of the topics were, to my taste, treated a bit lightly. It is of course understandable due to the relatively short amount of time given Birley - an hour and a half - yet I felt nonetheless a bit disappointed, but I take some solace in the fact that I now know the whereabouts of Septimius Severus' funeral, although his ashes, despite William of Malmesbury's statement, were taken to Rome. 

 Mosaic from the Roman exhibition depicting an ophiotaurus.